Living in a National Geographic Documentary

I really want to tell everyone what I did today, but I’m having a hard time finding the words! This experience feels like the kind you watch on TV, rather than experience live. I never would have thought that I would step foot on the continent of Antarctica, but yet that’s exactly what I did today…twice!

We started out with a morning landing right after breakfast. This stop was an island (Barrientos) in the South Shetland Islands. Looking back on it, it was great to have the first one out of the way, because there is a rather involved process to leave the ship. First, there are several layers of clothes to put on. The temperature was nice, 31 degrees Fahrenheit, but the wind was gusting to 47 knots. All of my northern US friends know about the delights of wind chill, so you can imagine how cold that felt. Once we have on all of our layers, we then go down to the bottom level of the ship, called Base Camp, where we check out of the ship and put on our waterproof pants, big boots, and life vests. After you are sufficiently dressed for the weather and have all of your camera straps and life vest straps all twisted up around your neck while trying to prevent your hat from sliding down while you put the hood of your jacket on, it is time to clean your boots before loading into a zodiac (black rubber boat with a motor).

The ship’s crew does a great job of getting us all ready and loaded, but the rest of us were struggling a little- dropping gloves, misplacing buffs, getting tangled in camera straps, etc. For my teacher friends, it’s like the first day of helping elementary students get ready for a snowy recess. For those of you who don’t live that life, just imagine 20-30 adults flinging winter outerwear everywhere!

I know the students I teach are very interested in how I layer up, and I’ll probably take a video later of the process, but today I wore a silk base layer (top and bottom), a turtle neck, tshirt, 2 pairs of socks, and waterproof pants underneath the outerwear they provide us (waterproof snow pants, double layer coat). I also wore a hat, fleece buff, and gloves. It was perfect.

Ok, so back to our first landing. I got in the zodiac, and we went through a bay area. As soon as we got to the landing, there were clusters of nesting penguins everywhere. There were coned off areas for us to walk around and explore, and we got to observe Chinstrap and Gentoo penguins nesting. The Chinstrap Penguins are called that because they have a black line that looks like a smile. They are the most rowdy of the penguins, at least so far.

Chinstrap Penguin bringing a stone to the nest – and until I finish downloading all of the pictures off of my good camera, you’re stuck with pictures of my pictures. I’ll go back and edit when I’m home!

Gentoos were much calmer…until a sneaky Gentoo would attempt to steal a stone from another penguin’s nest. Then, a ruckus would come. And for those of you who are really curious, I have recordings of both penguins’ sounds. I just can’t add them here on the mobile blog app.

On our return zodiac trip to our ship, we got to see a Weddell seal and an elephant seal on the beach.

That penguin seems awfully confident that he’s not going to be lunch, while the two seals lounge on the shore

Once back aboard, it was time for the ship to transit to the next stop. We got a briefing on how to take great smartphone pictures, the history of ice, and the importance of krill. My roommate Jacqueline and I also hit the outside hot tub, as the students requested this for my Antarctic bucket list. It was very cold getting into the jacuzzi, and ridiculously cold after getting out, but the time inside was great, as it is an infinity tub, meaning the whole outer side of the tub was clear, offering us great views while we submerged as much of our bodies as possible! We then hit the sauna to dry off.

During the afternoon hours, we went through an area known as Iceberg Alley, and this was incredible. My pictures do not do it justice, but there were icebergs of every size and shape, gleaming bright white in the sun. It was incredibly awe-inspiring.

Sorry- another picture of a picture

After we had dinner tonight, we got to go out to our next landing spot. Jacqueline and I thought we were getting better at gearing up, but don’t ask us how many times we almost left our room without something important. 😂

This landing was on the Antarctic Peninsula, in a spot referred to as Brown Bluff. It featured Gentoo and Adelie Penguins, and I guess you could say I saw a penguin or two…

The landing wasn’t a long one, due to some penguin mortality that we needed to stay away from (we have to be incredibly careful of the risk of spreading aviary flu), so we took some pictures and then got a sunset zodiac cruise around the massive penguin colony and gorgeous icebergs! It was incredible to set foot on Antarctica today, but the zodiac cruise was my favorite! The sky was gorgeous, penguins were porpoising in and out of the water on either side of us, and the color of the icebergs made the moment.

Seriously…the most beautiful color on the planet
Sorry for the final picture of a picture again, but this image reminds me of Monet’s haystacks, except it’s an iceberg!

I can’t wait to see what we do tomorrow!!! There’s hope that the ship gets to break through some sea ice (don’t worry; it’s made to do this!)!!!

Addendum: we are already navigating through some ice – I’ve made a video, but my internet connectivity isn’t strong enough for me to upload. I also recorded those sounds! Also, it’s almost midnight, and this is still what the sky looks like (sunset was at 10:30 or so)!

We just broke up this chunk with these penguins hitching a ride
Still quite bright out!

The Drake Passage

Today was all about transit. We are on our way to Antarctica from Ushuaia. So far, it’s been about like the Pacific Ocean was for my NOAA Teacher at Sea experience- not super smooth, but definitely not as bad as I imagined it would be. It’s very nice to have a ship that has stabilizers, and isn’t built like a bathtub (how the NOAA corpsmen said the NOAA ship I was on handled!). Some people onboard have been getting seasick, but it hasn’t been a problem at all for me. I did take my Dramamine beforehand, but I don’t think I actually needed it. Better safe than sorry, though!

The theme for the day was briefings. We got instructed on how to load the zodiac boats for our Antarctic landings, and how to prevent introducing biological material into Antarctica unintentionally. We also learned about the sea birds of the area and how to tell a story of the place that we are visiting through the pictures we will take.

Jacqueline and I did some bird watching off the back deck, and we saw fin whales as well!

Chilling in the igloo aboard the ship

The weather today was sometimes sunny, but for the most part it was cloudy. We just had our briefing on tomorrow’s tentative plan, and it sounds like we’re coming in early, thanks to making great time through the seas today. We will see land tomorrow morning, and be on it by 8:15 am! Then there’s a storm coming in, so we’re going to transit to a new spot and have another landing after dinner (taking advantage of the long southern summer sunlight). This means tomorrow I should have pictures from Antarctica in this blog!!!!! We have already made it into what they call Biological Antarctica, which is where the ocean water drops drastically in temperature and the marine life takes on Antarctic qualities (like surviving mostly on krill).

This is the bridge of the ship!
Captain’s welcome reception
Just got done cleaning my outerwear to prevent bringing seeds or diseases onto the Antarctic continent in the area of our ship where all expeditions leave from
I found my bio on the wall of staff. Every time I go near this, someone always comments “hey, that’s you!”

The waves and winds are getting higher again now (30 knots) and we just finished dinner, so we’re going to get our layers ready and get to bed for the early wake-up call! I can’t wait to see Antarctica with my own eyes after 9 months of reading, studying, and watching every documentary I could get my hands on about this continent!!!

This is a video of the waves from my very wet window!

Welcome to Ushuaia!

Ushuaia!!! (As seen from our catamaran tour)

Today we had an early wake-up call this morning so we could get ready to head south. After eating breakfast, we got on a bus to take us to the airport for our charter flight to Ushuaia. It was weird thinking that this was my last day on land for a bit.

When we got to the airport, we went through security. It was a little different than back home- they did not mind that we had water in our water bottles, but were much pickier about lithium ion batteries and electronics.

Once it was time for our plane to leave, we left the terminal in a bus to load the plane on the tarmac. It was beautiful weather and I tried to soak up the warmth for as long as I could! On the plane, it was just those of us going to the ship, so we could spread out. Landing in Ushuaia was the absolute most beautiful trip to an airport I’d ever had. You come in with the Andes Mountains on either side of the plane and you follow the water in. The water is that gorgeous aquamarine color of the Caribbean when the sun hits it. There was snow on the Andes, and the wind hits you coming off both sides of the mountains, so it is a wobbly landing for the last few minutes.

Boarding our plane
Pardon the icy plane window, but this gives you an idea

After we landed and collected our checked bags, we got on a bus for a city tour. It was fun to see all of the beautiful buildings and learn more about the town. We were told things were getting compressed time-wise because our ship to Antarctica is leaving earlier tonight, as a storm is due in.

My roommate Jacqueline and I at our stop on the city tour

After the tour, we all boarded a catamaran for lunch and a tour. The city tour guide told us that they can see 3 seasons in one day in Ushuaia, and we got a feel for that. It was sunny and warm when we boarded, but quickly turned to rain, followed by wind, and then we even saw a few snow flakes. We got to see some birds nesting, and the beautiful Lapatai Bay. The area is surrounded by the country of Chile – Ushuaia is on an island south of mainland Argentina, and is bordered on all sides by the country of Chile. The people of Ushuaia cannot get to Argentina by vehicle without driving through Chile first. I found that really interesting, and they said it makes living here expensive, as all goods have to go through Chile to make it here.

Imperial cormorants nesting

After the catamaran cruise, we boarded our ship, and they got underway almost immediately. Jacqueline and I met with one of the naturalists on the ship and she gave us a quick tour of the ship, along with helping us get sized for our parkas, pants, and boots. This ship is gorgeous. I’ve never been on a ship quite like this. Stay tuned for a ship tour in a future blog. It’s truly going to be a great place to reflect on all of the epic adventures we’re about to have- so many beautiful spots to sit and look out windows!

So, we are officially underway. We are told that there are some 40-knot winds coming, and because we’ll be close to land at that time still, the waves are going to be “messy.” They recommended taking motion sickness medicine, and promised it would get better farther into the journey south. They also said that what we are about to experience (3-4 meter seas), and that is a ‘good’ crossing for the Drake Passage- it’s not what they call the “Drake Lake” (super smooth), but it’s also not the “Drake Shake” (nasty crossing). Seems like the best we can hope for!

For the lifeboat drill, Jacqueline and I got to get in the lifeboat!!!
Hot chocolate to warm up
I have now played trombone on 3 continents!!! And the fourth one will be coming soon!!!

Arriving at “Good Air” or “Fair Winds”

I have made it to Buenos Aires, Argentina, which is the start of my expedition! I went from Milwaukee, WI to Dallas-Fort Worth, met up with my wonderful friend and Limitless Space Institute Educator roomie for life Lauren, and then got on another plane from Dallas to Buenos Aires. That flight was a long 9 1/2 hour flight, but there were several incredible views as we came in over the Pacific Ocean into Chile during the earlier morning time period. The Andes are beautiful, and now I want to go to Chile, too!!

Gorgeous!

Once in Buenos Aires, I did the customs/immigration thing uneventfully, and waited for the shuttle to our hotel. The international airport in Buenos Aires had a lot of American restaurants- MacDonald’s, Burger King, Starbucks, and an Outback Steakhouse. Good thing I don’t need to eat at the airport, as I’d much prefer to eat local foods!

I don’t think I could ever drive in Argentina – our guide said that they have inherited the Italian influence in their driving with lots of traffic, and I noticed many lanes with people driving in between the lanes from time to time, too!

After checking into the hotel and dropping off my bags, we embarked on a city tour of Buenos Aires. We got to see the underground tunnels of El Zanjon De Granados, the government buildings (including where Eva Perron addressed the people from a balcony), and walked through the cemetery that houses Eva Perron’s mausoleum.

We learned that Buenos Aires has a longer name – Real de Nuestra Señora Santa María del Buen Ayre, and was shortened to Buenos Aires over time. This means “Fair Winds,” because sailors wanted fair winds for their journey to and from Buenos Aires. Seems like a very fitting place to start an expedition to Antarctica! Let’s hope we have fair winds, too!

After that, it was time for our welcome reception, with the briefing for tomorrow. Then my roommate Jacqueline and I walked around the area by our hotel. It is along the river, and had a lot going on! I can cross off seeing the Argentine Tango in Argentina from my list, as we got to see a street performance! I found a bridge designed by Santiago Calatrava, and it reminded me of the Milwaukee Art Museum!

We have a 5:50 am wake-up call for our flight to Ushuaia tomorrow, so it’s time for bed!

Lots ‘o traffic
The cistern in El Zanjon De Granados
Eva Perron’s mausoleum
Many more mausoleums
Calatrava designed this bridge – Puente de la Mujer
Walking along the river
Street Tango!

A Music Room Full of Penguins!

When I started planning for how I was going to involve all students in our school in the Antarctic expedition, I talked to the teachers I work with. I was particularly curious as to how to make this impactful and meaningful for our youngest students. They don’t understand the distance to another state, let alone the idea of getting to Antarctica. The wonderful kindergarten teacher in our school suggested having the students guess what penguins sound like. I loved this idea, so I asked all of the students in the elementary grades to record what they thought penguins sounded like, while I made a video of them. Each student got to make their own video. Then, while I’m in Antarctica, I will record penguin sounds.

Cute chinstrap penguin I saw while in Antarctica (added to this blog after the expedition)

The students had a blast with this. Some of them made chicken noises, some of them had seen penguins (of a different kind than I will see) at the local zoo, and some of them just made silly sounds.

*Add on after the trip: The best part about this project was that one of the 2nd grade boys made the silliest sound when I was recording his penguin sound. I thought ‘oh, he’s just being silly,’ but his was the sound that most matched what the Adelie Penguins sounded like!

These are 2nd graders making chinstrap penguin noises

The students LOVED watching their videos and comparing them to the sounds of 4 different species of penguins. We then had the classes try to make the sounds after they heard the recordings. It was a class period full of laughter!

What Does Antarctica Look Like?

Before I left on my expedition, I asked the students in my classes what they thought Antarctica will look like. I had them draw their work on a piece of copy paper.

This was one student’s idea of what Antarctica looks like

After the students drew their ideas, I took their pictures looking like explorers in front of a green screen. I then put the student pictures into their drawings and turned my bulletin board into a collection of their images, as though they were postcards from Antarctica. I put it up right before I left, so students would be able to look at these images the entire time I was on my expedition.

Greetings from Antarctica!

When I come back, the students will take new pictures in front of the green screen wearing my parka, and I will drop them into pictures from my expedition!

Float Your Boat!

Helping out scientists and composing music at the same time? Yes, please! In order to get ready for the Antarctic learning journey the students get to be a part of this year, we participated in the Float Your Boat program. This program allows schools to decorate wooden boats that are stamped with the organization’s website and a tracking number. The boats are deployed on an Arctic ice floe, along with a gps buoy. We are able to track the buoys to see where our boats are. Eventually, the ice floe drifts to warmer water and melts. The boats then end up dispersed in the ocean currents, where they will wash up on shore and citizen scientists turn them in.

Sample decorations on the tops of the boats (artists’ choice)

Even though my travels will take me to the opposite side of our Earth from these boats, it is a great program for students to learn about ocean currents and ice melt. Additionally, we were able to decorate the boats with music – students composed songs in the key of C (get it….SEA???). I checked to make sure they had the right number of beats in a measure, and used notes that fit that key as a formative assessment from music theory, and they get to spread music throughout the world! They got to decorate the top in whatever manner they wanted!

The students didn’t groan *too* much when I said their compositions had to be in the Key of SEA (hahaha)

After our entire school decorated the boats (grades 3-year old kindergarten all the way up to 8th grade), they got mailed off to Washington. They will embark on their journey from there!

This student had a very particular song in mind that she wanted on her boat.

Antarctic Book Club

While I am gone in Antarctica, I have set up an optional book club for the students in my school. Students will read “Eve of the Emperor Penguins” from the Magic Treehouse series.

The goal is for each student/family to read one chapter per night that I am gone. We’ll take one day off per week, so that students can catch up if they get behind.

The host site for our book club is Facebook, and settings allow me to pre-post a daily message ahead of time that will be released each morning at 8 am. I also posted a calendar of the chapter readings on the main page. There will be discussion questions to get everyone interacting, and then when I come back, students who finished the book will be invited to a Penguin Party to celebrate their work!