Traveling to Senegal? Here’s what you should know!

Found yourself going to Senegal for a Fulbright program? Maybe you are looking for a new adventure and are going to become a tourist to Senegal. Either way, here are the things I packed and wanted to know that will help others as they prepare for a trip to Senegal.

Packing list: 1) Grayl water bottle – I brought this, but we purchased bottled water before we left Dakar in enough of a quantity that I didn’t need this. It was nice to know that I had it in case I used up my water, though. Piece of mind is everything when dealing with water you cannot drink coming out of the sink!

2) Insect repellant – I brought hefty spray with DEET. My travel companions had DEET wipes – these were the best!

3) Pepcid chewables – a friend had recommended taking these daily as a preventative medication. I packed it and used it when I needed it, but did not use it as frequently as she mentioned.

4) Liquid IV – I drank one of these each night before bed to replace the fluids and electrolytes I lost sweating all day. Senegal is hot, even if you are not in the hottest desert areas. Even with the ocean breezes when we were out of the school, I was sweating a lot.

5) Febreze – I bought a travel-size spray bottle of Febreze to spray my clothes. I only packed a week’s worth of clothes, but was there for 2 weeks. As a result, each outfit got worn twice, and there weren’t much for laundry options. Febreze prevented me from being stinky while being sandwiched in the back of a car with my two travel companions.

6) Toilet paper – Bring it. You will need it. They don’t use it. ‘Nuff said.

7) Hand sanitizer – same story. And, do you really ever travel without it?

8) Power adapter AND converter – you will need this one:

You need a converter AND adapter
The Internet provided conflicting advice- this is the plug I needed

9) While we’re talking about power – bring a power bank for your phone. You will take so many pictures and videos and your phone will constantly be looking for wifi and cell coverage that the battery will drain fast. You don’t want to be without battery power while you are out exploring. I usually gave my phone an extra zap of charging during lunch just so I could top off the tank, so to speak.

10) If you are traveling for a Fulbright, you will need to bring gifts for your host teacher, the students, etc., as they will be showering you with gifts and you want to be able to reciprocate. For this, all teachers who host Americans have been to the US, so I asked my host teacher what she missed from being in the US. She mentioned certain lotions and chapsticks she can’t get in Senegal, so I brought a bulk thing of Carmex for her (her preferred chapstick). I also collected books, card games, and other English learning aids from my school families to donate to her school. I know one of my travel companions brought chalk as well, as supplies are hard to come by. For the students, I had the students I work with make postcards for the Senegalese students – they talked about their favorite things and what they do in their free time. Sara had her students make postcards and then had a QR code for students to scan with their phones to see pictures of her students. I also had the students from my school design a sticker that represented Senegal and the US together, and had it made through Sticker Mule. I handed those out to everyone, and adults and students alike loved them. The students also really loved trying American candy! We were there for Easter, so I also brought jelly beans to share with my host teacher’s family who had us over for Easter dinner. I did not want to come empty handed! Hopefully this helps get you started with some brainstorming.

Our donations and a banner that all of the students in my school signed

11) Dramamine – even if you have never been carsick in your life, the roads are very bumpy and rough and the driving is a bit more erratic, so people in my cohort who don’t usually have a problem with this found themselves struggling a bit. Bring some just in case.

12) Snacks – the eating schedule in any foreign country tends to be different than what you are used to. It’s always good to have snacks because you never know when your next meal will be. Even knowing this, we sometimes had to fight off hangry feelings!

13) Your adventurous spirit – travel to any foreign country is a gift. You obviously wouldn’t choose to do so if you weren’t adventurous. However, sometimes when you get tired, you just want to curl up and go with what you are most comfortable with- whether it’s a meal choice, an activity choice, or choosing to just go back to the hotel. Fight these impulses. Traveling somewhere different is tiring, both mentally and physically, but make the most of your experience. Try the weird-looking food; go to one more museum. You won’t regret it when you are back in the comfort of your own home. I promise.

Other tips for travel beyond what to pack- I sprayed all of my clothes with permethrin. I had a friend who happened to have an extra bottle of the stuff, so I sprayed all of the clothes I was bringing. It helped a lot.

I got the following immunizations: from the travel clinic – yellow fever and typhoid. From Walgreens – meningitis, a measles/mumps/rubella booster, hepatitis A, and hepatitis B. The travel clinic recommended that I get the other vaccines from Walgreens due to the fact that the travel clinics do not accept insurance (mainly because insurance doesn’t cover the usual travel immunizations), so the ones insurance does pay for can be received at Walgreens. The travel clinic also gave me a prescription for the anti-malarial pills and a basic antibiotic for any stomach issues I might develop while traveling and eating things that are different than at home.

Be prepared to negotiate – both market purchases and taxis involve haggling. It was not uncommon to offer a seller 1/3 of what he or she was asking as my offer. My host teacher and the country host both said we would end up paying more because our skin was white and they knew we were American. Do not be afraid that you will insult the seller, as this is part of the back-and-forth that takes place. If you watch two Senegalese people haggle, there is a very awesome rhythm to it, and it looks heated. It isn’t, and both parties usually smile at the end.

ATMs – if you plan to use ATMs for local currency, some of our cohort had a hard time finding some. The one in our hotel was broken most of the time. It is hard to exchange money in some areas. There is a currency exchange in the airport, and we had one in our hotel. I changed over all of the money I got from my Fellowship, hoping that I wouldn’t go over that amount. It was totally fine. Many of my colleagues had a hard time, and Senegal is not known for taking credit cards anywhere (including stores, taxis, museums, and restaurants).

GPS is inaccurate in Senegal. Drive times are very wrong and routes your driver will take are often not in the maps. Make sure your itinerary is not tight time-wise, as you will not get it all in.

Going to a school? Know that the students will laugh when they see you. It took me a long time (ok, like a few uncomfortable minutes) to realize that they weren’t laughing AT me- they were nervous to meet me. Don’t be afraid to approach students (they’re going to call you over to them anyway) and just talk to them – they will be nervous about their English skills and you will be nervous about your Wolof and French skills, but it will be so rewarding for you both!

Trust your instincts- some of our cohort members had moments that were really rough. There are bad people everywhere in the world- people who will try to take advantage of your desire to help. If it starts feeling wrong, contact your IREX in-country consultant. They will help you, and they can’t do that if you don’t tell them what is going on as it is happening. Don’t wait until you return to Dakar.

If you are a Fulbright fellow- finish your website deliverables before you leave for your trip. Then you can just focus on your guiding question, and enjoy the experience. When you get back home, you will be so busy processing what you just did that you won’t really want to hammer that out, too.

What Teranga really means

Teranga. This word means the world to the Senegalese. Roughly translated to ‘hospitality,’ it is the mantra of the Senegalese people. However, I think teranga means so much more than hospitality, based off of what I saw.

Teranga is greeting people – all people – with a smile. Differences in religion and skin color are respected and encouraged. Muslims and Catholics are married regularly in Senegal, and it is not uncommon for families to have Catholics and Muslims both.

We had just arrived to the school and these girls called us over – they wanted to meet us right away!
This is a picture from our welcoming ceremony – people were seated behind us and standing, stretched out on both sides of the canopy! The community came out to greet us!

Teranga is sharing your meal with anyone who needs it – whether you have a lot or not. This includes the neighborhood children, friends, family, and people you have just met a few hours earlier.

This is how meals are shared – all together in one bowl. Meals are a community event!
These cute girls joined us for lunch one day, as my host teacher usually invites them to eat lunch when they come around
These fishermen invited us to dinner one night as we walked past.
The fishermen eating their day’s catch, and sharing it with us!
There is no possible way that fish could be any fresher than this – eating it fresh off of the fishermen’s boat, grilled on the beach while sitting in their fishing hut.

Teranga is giving gifts to an American even if your family doesn’t have much to give.

Snacks to try and bracelets from multiple students
A different day of bracelets from other students
This group of girls gave Sara and I makeovers. Then, we held a dance party, and they were so respectful of our space – they would always remind each other not to crowd us too much. They would grab our phones to take videos and pictures of us having fun. It is one of my favorite memories, as these were students we did not get to teach during our time at the school – they were from the middle school side of the school. They were not comfortable with their English, but we all understood fun and the joy of being together.

Teranga is acknowledging someone’s strengths, particularly if they are different than your own. Students would often point out the really good musicians in their classes once they heard I was a music teacher, and encourage their classmates to sing for me.

This artist used his gifts to create an original piece of artwork for each of us!
This music class met on a day it wouldn’t normally, with a teacher who came in special just to show me what music looks like in Senegal schools (because my school placement did not have music). The teacher isn’t even their music teacher – he is the president of the country’s music teacher association, and he ran class with these students he didn’t know just for me!

Teranga is welcoming foreigners into your closed building for a tour. We toured so many buildings that were closed, just because we were from the United States. Can you imagine how we would react if someone from another country wanted to get into one of our locked buildings? The police would be called; it would make the news!

This is the room where the president of Senegal meets with VIPs in the Dakar International Congress Center (where the president makes all of his public addresses). The building was closed when we toured it.

Teranga is helping others – whether you know them or not – with whatever they need, just because you are right there.

These two students traveled to Dakar to attend the English Day event we were going to be at!
Our wonderful host teacher told me at the end of our stay that she doesn’t like water. She told me then that she was really not a fan of being on boats, either. I was surprised by this, as she took us on this incredible sunset boat cruise in a bird sanctuary, and she took us on a boat tour of Pink Lake. That’s an incredible amount of teranga to do something you don’t enjoy in order to show your guests everything your country has to offer!

Teranga is SEEING someone – truly seeing who they are, what makes them happy, what type of person they are. Although I only spent 2 weeks in the country, there were people who figured out what my beliefs, strengths, and style were better than people I’ve known for years in Wisconsin.

This boy wrote the sweetest poem to me, and wrote one for each of my travel companions, too.
Wow.

Teranga is always greeting someone when you meet them. It is rude not to smile and offer a lengthy greeting each time you arrive, pass someone, or want to talk to someone. This was an important part of our school day – each morning, we greeted the other teachers and the headmistress. If you have a simple question for someone, you must first greet them and take an interest in them – not just walk up and ask your quick question, no matter how hurried you are.

The mayor of the city wanted to meet us when he heard we were in his area.
These two sweet girls came running up to Sara and I to give us hugs. We then danced with them for a while.

Along those lines, teranga is having a smile for everyone. I know I have been back to the US for a while, but I really meet all of those smiley greetings and friendly faces! Senegalese people understand the importance of building relationships!

These boys heard me playing the trombone for one of our classes, and hung outside the classroom door watching. Music always brings people in….

What school is like in Senegal

The absolute best part of the Fulbright Teachers for Global Classrooms program is visiting the schools, getting to know the students, and getting to teach with our host teachers!

Because of this experience, I really got to see what school in Senegal is like. These are my observations to help paint a picture of what life is like for Senegalese teachers and students. I know many of the people I’ve talked to have asked about schools in Senegal, so here you go!

1. There are anywhere from 60-90 kids in a class. I was in a school that housed middle and high school students, and the high school students all sat three to a desk. The room is FULL!

This is before class, so there are a few students still coming in!

2. Everyone walks to school. It is really cool to see all of the students parading down the dirt road to get to school each day.

Coming into the school in the morning

3. Teachers use a chalkboard and chalk to teach to their students. There aren’t projectors, wifi, computers, etc. in every classroom, though there were 3 computers in a room that could be used if someone needed them. However, don’t feel sorry for these teachers – they are incredible teachers regardless of what resources they have! In fact, I learned a lot by watching these masters hold the attention of a room packed full of students.

My wonderful host teacher, teaching English

4. The classrooms have an open-air feel, as they don’t have window glass, and the doors are kept open for cross breeze. It never felt really hot in the classrooms, despite it being in the 90s temperature-wise, and having no air conditioning.

Windows with no glass – only shutters

5. On Fridays, students can wear whatever clothes they would like, rather than the school uniform they wear the other days of the week. Friday is a religious day, so students come to school in fancy dresses and formalwear. It is very different than what the students in my school choose to wear on their Fridays (jeans and t-shirts)!

School uniforms
Friday attire

6. School break runs from June to October, as this is the rainy season. There is a lot of sand and dirt everywhere, and the classrooms would get horribly hot if they had to close up the windows and doors, so students have off.

The school!

7. Students have free periods in their schedule, where they hang out in the courtyard and just talk. This is unsupervised time.

Students just hanging out, waiting for their next class

8. Food is sold for students during the day, and students eat it during their free blocks.

Snack food – lots of nuts and fruits
More snack foods
Making sandwiches to sell to students, as well – they were delicious!

9. Substitute teachers don’t exist. If the teacher can’t come in (illness, family event, conference, etc.), then the students just don’t have class that day.

My community school placement

10. Punishment (both in class and with the headmaster) involves students kneeling on the ground with their head up against the wall or blackboard for a length of time. I did see this, but did not take pictures of that! It’s bad enough being in trouble – no one wants to see a picture of themselves in trouble on the internet!

11. Students generally like school. The majority of them have a positive attitude in class and really participate in classroom discussions.

They’re ready to learn!

12. The headmaster or headmistress (principal) is the teacher in the building with the most seniority.

In the headmistress’s office with my host teacher, waiting for school to start
The headmistress, thanking us for our time in Diamniadio

13. Teachers in Senegal are placed in their first teaching job. After that, they can choose to go wherever they would like to teach when an opening comes up.

This is the college my host teacher went to in order to become a teacher.

14. Teachers are required to retire when they are 60 years old. The teachers are very upset about this, as once you are a teacher, you may not hold another job. Once you stop working your teaching job, you can’t make money anymore, so people go from a decent wage to getting paid nothing and living in poverty.

Senegal is….

I’ve been home for 4 days now, and I went back to work immediately upon return to the country. There have been some very funny moments that have made me laugh, as I try to reenter American life. Yesterday, I was brushing my teeth, and had a freakout moment when I realized I had just used tap water to rinse my toothbrush. For 17 days I had used bottled water exclusively, even for teeth brushing. How funny that the instinct stayed with me, even after having been back for days (and yes, I did brush my teeth in the days between my return and this moment…not sure why it got me all of a sudden). I also have had a dream about being in Senegal every night since I’ve been back. Nothing earth-shattering, but definitely seeing the faces of the students I met and teaching has left a deep impression on my subconscious! And, there is the joy of continuing to take my anti-malarial pills for 7 days after my return…

This all got me thinking about how I would describe Senegal. I have had so many incredible conversations with my friends, family, and colleagues, as they dig deeper through things that I didn’t put in my blog. However, I feel a strong desire to try to package this experience into a few words for when that casual run-in with someone who asks “So, how was Senegal?” and is looking for the super succinct answer. I have come to the conclusion, though, that my determination to try to simplify this experience into a sentence or two truly does the country, its people, and the fellowship a great disservice. This exercise did, however, produce some fun memories that made me laugh. Here’s what I have come up with, in terms of describing Senegal (and the experience itself):

Senegal is seeing the biggest, most beautiful smiles on the curious faces of students who believe learning English is the only way to be successful in their futures.

Senegal is noise – all the time – whether you are in a city or smaller community, whether you are in a market or a classroom.

Senegal is the giggles and whispers as you walk through a school, as students have never seen a white person before (this always made me self-conscious until one of the students told me that they were all just so nervous to speak English to us, and the US is so highly respected there).

Senegal is Teranga, in a way that cannot be expressed by the traditional translation of ‘hospitality,’ because it is so much more than that.

Senegal is being uncomfortable, but never feeling unsafe.

Senegal is raw beauty – both in landscape and people.

Senegal is an understanding of what is truly important.

Senegal is sand everywhere – I would leave the bathroom after a shower and immediately have sandy feet again, and hopping into bed each night involved encountering sandy sheets!

Senegal is a dichotomy of old and new – modern cars and semis traveling next to horse-drawn carts, new buildings being placed next to buildings that have seen many historic events.

Senegal is a 4:00 pm lunch, and thinking breakfast was so long ago that you might eat anything placed in front of you before asking what it is.

Senegal is colorful fabric and no person ever wearing the same outfit as anyone else in the country!

Senegal is food with incredible flavors shared in one bowl with everyone you are lucky enough to dine with.

Senegal is music…all the time, but not in the way I expected. (I write this as I listen to my new favorite mix of mbalax songs.)

Senegal is a giant leap out of your comfort zone.

Senegal is haggling – taxis, markets- there’s a whole art and rhythm to the negotiations that is fun to listen to (and even to participate in).

Senegal is the beautiful cacophony of multiple mosques calling the Muslims to prayer.

Senegal is not knowing what you might experience when attempting a public restroom visit….

Sometimes it was a toilet, sometimes it was this. Sometimes there was toilet paper, but most of the time there was not. Most of the time the whole bathroom was very wet, as they often wash the whole place down after each visit…

Senegal is hot!

Senegal is a conversation that artfully switches between Wolof, French, and English several times in the span of a few minutes.

Senegal is a place where EVERYONE is still out in the streets, even at 10 pm – the busiest markets look the same at noon as they do at 10 pm!

Senegal is wondering whether you will have electricity at your hotel that night.

Senegal is stopping the car and yelling out the window to the group of people in order to get directions to where you are going.

Senegal is the gateway to West Africa, as Dakar is a major port for anything entering all of the countries of West Africa.

Senegal is a country where sometimes there are roads, and sometimes you make your own roads.

Senegal is waiting 15-20 minutes for each picture you put in your blog posts to upload, sometimes having to try several times before it finally goes!

Senegal is a place that changes you – you will not be the same after visiting it.

Senegal is gratitude in all directions.

And, Senegal is a place that once you’ve visited, a piece of you will be left behind when you return. It is an experience that will never leave you and you will never regret your visit.

Definitely missing my Senegalese friends, the students, and my colleagues from the Fulbright Teachers for Global Classrooms Fellowship.

Fulbright cohort in front of the Renaissance monument

Lisa’s Guide to Driving in Senegal

I think the fun thing about traveling anywhere is seeing what the traffic and driving patterns are in any new spot. Every place that I have been has had its own unique driving style, and I am always happy to use public transportation or let others drive in new places because of this.

Senegal did not disappoint in this area, either. We were on our way to the city from the airport on our very first morning in Senegal. As we were driving what would normally be considered a busy interstate in the US, I noticed there were carts being pulled by horses (called ‘charrettes’) on the same fast-moving, multi-lane highway. I found this amusing, but also grew to love the contrasts between that mode of transportation and the zippy motorcycles and mopeds weaving between cars and semis on the highway!

Passing a charrette in Dakar, while on our bus on the way to the hotel from the airport
A nice mix of modern and traditional transportation

Additionally, I observed the most interesting rules of the road in Senegal. Consider this my “Guide to Driving in Senegal.”

First, the lines between lanes on the highways are often non-existent. The locals don’t have any trouble with this, but for me this took a little getting used to. However, that said, when there were lines, it appeared they were optional to follow, as well. Often cars and other motorized vehicles would drive wherever they wanted to get around slower cars.

Our lane is somewhere here…..

Roundabouts also appear to be an interesting event in Senegal – the cars were coming at us from all directions…..

Traffic in Dakar

Speaking of going around cars that are driving slower than you – as far as I can tell, the entire country is considered a ‘passing zone.’ The proper technique to let others know you’re passing them (and also to let oncoming traffic know that you are in their lane) is to flash your lights. This flashing of headlights would happen if you were following someone in the same lane as you who is driving faster (letting them know to get out of your way). The flashing of lights would be used to let oncoming traffic know you were in their lane and would be there as they continued towards you, so maybe they should slow down or go off the side of the road. The flashing of lights was also used to let someone who looked like they were going to pull out in front of you that the idea of such a thing was unwise. If things looked particularly dicey, the horn came into play to let those drivers know not to cut you off as well. Lights communicated a lot!

I bet you are wondering with all of this passing, and the light-flashing at intersections, how does one decide who has the right of way? I will tell you – it is the person who is unwilling to yield to anyone else. After much observation, I can tell you that the right of way is given to the person who has less to lose! Sometimes this becomes open for a loud debate….

In fact, if you are merging into a tollbooth, or onto a highway in a congested traffic area, the best thing to do is to roll down your window and discuss it with the driver of the vehicle that you are hoping will let you in. This ‘discussion’ is best done while still nudging your car into the real or perceived gap you are trying to fit into. Sometimes it may not be possible to slide more than a few sheets of paper between each car!

Traffic in Dakar……eek.

How do the Senegalese find their way to locations? While in the US, everyone has their favorite navigation app – be it Google Maps, Apple Maps, Waze, or any other fun variation on that familiar theme, the Senegalese use something different: other people. The Senegalese in general are usually outside – walking, eating, shopping at market stalls, talking with others – they are a very social group of people. There is ALWAYS someone nearby. Whenever we went somewhere, my host teacher would always end up rolling down her window, greeting people in Wolof, and asking for directions. Most times the people would know where she wanted to go, but other times they would point her to the next intersection where we would roll down our window and repeat the greeting and question. Sometimes it would take us only one stop to find our location, and other times it would take us over 7! Who needs GPS?!?

This is what our area looked like at every hour of the day – from early morning until past 10 pm!

Now one thing that is very interesting is how often our driver got pulled over. We rode with the same driver for the 9 days we were in Diamniadio. During that time, he got pulled over 7 times. The police set up at a spot on a road, and then stand outside their vehicles. If they point at you, you must pull over and wait to find out what you got pulled over for. Often, these stops took some time, as the police were hoping you would just pay them some money to continue on your way in a timely manner. One time, our driver was pulled over and they told him his license was being taken because he was wearing sandals to drive. Do you know how they knew from the road that he was wearing sandals? They didn’t. They couldn’t find anything else wrong with what he was doing, so they cited him for that. The next morning, he drove to the City Hall, paid his fine, and got his license back. The funny part? He did all of this in the same sandals he was wearing the day before. The other things he got pulled over for was the tint on the windows and our host teacher not wearing her seat belt. We didn’t hear the other reasons why he had to pay fines.

A familiar sight in the mirror….

Other fun things to watch out for? There are cows everywhere! I’m pretty sure that due to their size, they get the right of way…

Mooooooooooo.

Also, don’t be scared of the people hanging off of the back of vehicles. People use these vans as public transportation, and there isn’t a capacity. People will sit practically on top of each other, stand, and hang off of the back to get to where they need to go.

Car rapides, or Ndiaga ndiayes

Let’s say you are driving in Senegal, and the concrete road ends. What do you do? Keep driving, of course. The major roads are paved, but driving around through the towns are all done on dirt roads.

A neighborhood
The drive to school….sometimes we would drive around the soccer field, and sometimes we drove through it….

Now, you might be thinking “Why would I want to drive with all of this hassle?” Well, you might want to know that I am pretty sure Senegal may have been doing “curbside pickup” for much longer than we have been doing it in the US. For us, it mostly started during COVID, but I can imagine the Senegalese pulling up to the roadside market stalls and purchasing the freshest fruit from their favorite vendor decades before 2010! What better way to pick out your produce than from the comfort of your own passenger seat?

Who wants mangoes?

So, now that you know how to drive in Senegal, are you ready to give it a go? If not, I can assure you the taxis and the train are great options! Just make sure you negotiate the price of each taxi ride BEFORE you get in the car!

Farewell, Senegal!

The last day in Senegal. So bittersweet! This morning we went to the market. My host teacher Sophie was invited to come along to help our big cohort out, so it was wonderful to see her again. I had one objective today- obtain an authentic djembe. However, I did not want to do this until we were done in the market, because who wants to carry that while others shop?

Soumbedioune Market
I see djembe…don’t give away my intentions….

After the many purchases of things none of us really needed until we got into the haggling spirit, we went in search of Senegalese snacks to bring back to our students. It seemed fitting that we brought American snacks for the Senegalese students, so why not continue that exchange of ideas and culture with some snacks for our students, too?!?

Once done spending more CFA (their currency), we started packing. I took a break in the afternoon to lead a drum session by the pool.

Jamming out

One man came over and helped my friend with her kes-kes. I asked him if he drummed, too, and he said he did. He sat down at my drum and played for us. He then offered me my own private drum lesson! It was so awesome. What a great way to end the trip!

This is ridiculously cool

I’m now on my way to the airport. My plane takes off at 11 tonight (6 pm CST), and I’ll be in Paris before making it to the US. Stay tuned to find out when I’ll get to land. I hear there’s spicy weather expected on Monday, so please let it happen before or after my flight arrives!!!

Last view of the ocean right outside of my hotel room, as I carry my bags out to the van.

Wow, What a Day!

Have you ever been on a journey, either physically or metaphorically, that was so full and rich that you knew it would take you a long time to unpack mentally? That’s what this Senegal adventure has been. As I got to talk to each member of my cohort about their experiences here, it is always a story of joy and despair, frustrations and surprises. In every travel situation, there are always things that go a little differently than planned, and that has always been part of the adventure. It is also why I feel so strongly about traveling with my family- it teaches resilience and perseverance, just as my parents taught me the same skills through our family travels when I was a kid.

Our first structured event back in Dakar took place this morning, and it was a debrief session on our experience. We talked through what we went through and how to process our experiences in ways we can communicate it to people who haven’t been to Senegal and won’t necessarily understand with the depth that experience brings. We looked at how our views have changed through what has happened, and how to process the complex layers of emotions we have. It was a very powerful session that felt necessary and appreciated.

On the ferry with friends!

To lighten things up a little, we then went to Goree Island for a tour of the whole island, however there was also the dark and moving visit to the House of Slaves. This is the point of no return for slaves as they were sent from that spot on Goree Island to their next stop in the slave trade. Seeing spaces smaller than my master bathroom that would house 40-50 slaves was an experience that left a lasting impression on me.

Looking out the Door of No Return and getting chills
Door of No Return
40-50 slaves were held in this space until the ship came to take them away

While on the island, we got a tour of some of the artists’ work, famous houses, and the first Catholic Church of Senegal. It was a beautiful island that cars are not allowed on. We took a ferry to get there, and the souvenir of the trip were these instruments that featured two seed-filled balls held together by a string, called kes-kes. I’m pretty sure everyone in my cohort ended up buying at least one set! I got a lesson on how to play mine, and you’ll be happy to know that I’ll practice on my three flights home starting tomorrow. I’m sure the people around me won’t mind as I perfect my craft. Maybe I’ll get a seat to myself…or a free upgrade…

Goree Island is beautiful!
First Catholic Church in Senegal
Getting my lesson with the kes-kes
The kes-kes master

We ended the evening with dinner and more incredible conversations as we all work to process the things we saw and the beliefs that have changed us. As I start packing up my belongings to get ready to go home, I can’t help but be grateful for this opportunity, and honored to be put with such a fantastic group of teachers.

Also, bissap cheesecake…I am grateful for bissap cheesecake

Back in Dakar!

This morning we said goodbye to our sweet hotel staff. My favorite was a woman named Roumy- she was always smiling, would greet us no matter the time every morning and every night when we came back to the hotel, and was always apologizing for her English (which was better than my French). We had the best half English/half French conversations I’ve ever had! When we left, all of the hotel staff came out to take pictures, hug us, and see us off. The hotel owner called us on the phone to say goodbye and wish us well. It was quite an event!

Roumy!!! Sweetest woman in the planet!

We got checked back into our hotel in Dakar, and then got to go to Village des Arts, which is a center for artists to create, display, and sell their art. There weren’t many artists present today, as Friday is a holy day for Muslims. The ones that were open showcased mixed media art, welded sculptures of iron, furniture made from tires, and very intricate ebony carvings and sculptures. We also got to go into the gallery, which featured art from artists in their teens all the way up to 98 years old!

Checking out one of the artist’s workspaces
The gallery (it has sandy floors)
Chair and table made from tires
These are made from wood!

We then ventured out to a Lebanese restaurant, and had a delicious lunch. I had some really good sausage in a pomegranate sauce- it was tasty. After lunch, we returned back to the hotel to await the arrival of all of our friends to hear about their community visits. You know how it is when you are reunited with an old friend after a few years of not seeing each other? That’s what it felt like to see the other members of our cohort. It was great hearing stories of funny things that happened, unexpected moments of joy, and even moments that were sad. Everyone’s story was different, but we all will leave changed by the depth of this experience! I am so grateful to be a part of this unbelievable program, and hope to encourage others to apply, too!

Back in Dakar! I can hear drumming on the beach!

The Final Day In Diamniadio

Well, the day I’ve been dreading has come- the last day with the students of Ousmane Sow High School in Diamniadio (the city is pronounced Jem-NAH-joh). All of these sweet, curious, adventurous students gave us the best goodbyes we could get. Sara and I were treated to makeovers, and we were honored in ceremonies. It was bittersweet, as it was an amazing day and I’ll be happy to get back to my own family, but I’m also so sad to leave. That’s the sign of a great adventure, though. Sometimes when you go to new places, you leave a little bit of your soul behind.

A beautiful school
The purple trombone rides again
I played a series of songs for the class and asked them to tell me how the music made them feel and why. Every single song I played, they answered that the music made them happy. Music is beautiful, indeed!
These boys heard the trombone playing and hung outside the classroom door, so I went and jammed with them for awhile after the lesson inside the classroom was done!
Filling in the lesson plan report for the day in the official book the school keeps
Sophie, presenting the donations we gave her to the school
This artist made each of us a painting to bring home. How cool is the music on this one?!?
The students started checking out all of the English books right away. The school will be starting an English library with our donations!
The headmistress of the school, giving me a certificate of appreciation for my work at their school
One of the students wrote a poem for each of us. The poem which wrote for me made me feel like he was peering into my soul. It moved me to tears!
This girl was so excited to fix me up. Sara said I look like a nun!
Sara and I, after our new makeovers and dance party with these beautiful girls
I love this picture so much – one of those spontaneous moments that the girls thought would be a great way to take a picture with us

After we had our ceremonies, Sara and I went to check out the beautification process that was going on at the school. Each classroom was competing to see who could make the most beautiful rooms. The students were cleaning, painting, and designing gorgeous murals, all while trying to keep their work a secret from the other classes. Sara and I were the only ones allowed into some of the classrooms because the students didn’t want word to get out about what they had done. It was so fun to see the pride the students had in their work!

Wow….painting above the chalkboard

After the fun of all of that, we were taken to the mayor’s office, where we had a meeting with him. He expressed his gratitude in what we have done for the students in his city and how important continued collaboration would be to us both. I appreciated the importance he put on education!

Meeting with the mayor!

Then it was off to lunch at Sophie’s house (this time we had Thebougienne with 3 different kinds of fish and fresh mangos for dessert). So delicious! After such a great lunch, we were off to have our final adventures. We went fabric shopping and then stopped by Sophie’s tailor to get our traditional Senegalese dresses made. We visited a friend of Sophie’s who is an artist and got to view her work. Then we stopped back to visit Sophie’s mom again. Finally, it was time for dinner. Sophie took us back to Solome beach for a buffet. It was a beautiful night with the breeze and the ocean waves crashing right next to us. What an incredible journey this has been! Just a few more days left to wrap up the program, and then I get to go home and share this experience with the students and staff at my school! More than anything though, I’m looking forward to hugging my family! I’ve got some great surprises to bring them!

On the way to our dinner spot

The Days Are Rapidly Coming To An End

Today we got to co-teach 2 classes and meet with the English club. Sara and I taught the classes the “Hokey Pokey,” and surprisingly the oldest students liked it the best! It is really fun now, as we have made connections with the students- knowing their names and a bit about their family lives. One student I talked to today was nervous for her baccalaureate exam and she wants to become a nurse. Another student really wants to be a famous singer in America (and she sang for me- she definitely has the voice for it)! Her two friends want to be her manager and her wardrobe specialist. Another student wants to move to Canada after his exam because his brother moved there. I have always liked listening to the dreams for the future that the students I work with have, and I can’t wait to share with them how similar their dreams are to the Senegalese students.

These three promised to keep making music together and to remember me when they are famous!

English club was lots of fun! They sang a lot of songs for us, and since they were singing the “ABC song,” I taught them “Twinkle, Twinkle Little Star” since it has the same melody. I handed out more of the stickers and letters from the students at my school, and we gave them American flag pins, as well.

Wearing his sticker from my school proudly!

After English club, we got to go to Sophie’s house for lunch. She had one of her student’s moms make lunch and clean while we were at school, so it was all ready when we got there. We had mafe, which is a delicious beef, peanut butter, and tomato sauce stew served on rice. It’s very delicious!

Mafe lunch!
Milk…not like ours! It was chunky and you added sugar to it to your liking.

With full stomachs, it was now time to venture back into Dakar for some exploring. First, we visited the Museum of Black Civilizations, which had some great exhibits from all over Western Africa.

Artwork called “Big Senegalese Family” – from one of the museum exhibits

Then we had a special treat- we went to the National Theater. It is named after a Senegalese drummer- Doudou Nolaye Coumba Rose. I have to check out his music when I get a chance. When we walked up to the theater, they were very clearly setting up for a big event. When we walked in, we learned there was an energy conference- there were exhibits being set up about solar panels and wind farms. As soon as we got in the building, we heard drumming and I got excited! We climbed up some stairs, wandered around some twisting corners, and found a drum group practicing for a show they have tomorrow night. It was FANTASTIC! Then we watched a dance group practice for that same performance and they were amazing, as well. What a treat!

The drummer outside of the theater
The drummers and dancers together! My WiFi is particularly spotty tonight, so I’m not even going to try to upload the videos! I’ll add them when I get back home

We then stopped at the Cathedral in Dakar. It was so beautiful, and it was great to see it!

Dakar Cathedral

For our final adventure of the night, we went fabric shopping. Some of the other Fulbright groups have been posting pictures of traditional dresses they’ve had made while they were here, and we had thought we’d try our hand at that, too. Fabric shopping is intense. There are shops set up one after another after another, all in the same area. You really can’t tell where one stops and the next one starts. The shops all are super full of fabric, with tiny aisles to walk through and many people trying to get by. It did not take us long to get overwhelmed! Sara found some fabric, and I got a ready-made dress since that seemed much easier. I now understand why no two dresses in Senegal are the same!

A tiny, minuscule, very small selection of the fabric we saw (look in the room). Not a great shot, I know, but I’ll try to do better next fabric hunt we go on!